Your dog sounds like a puppy version of the problem Samoyed in question No. 2. Although I don't think you necessarily have an actual "aggression problem" just yet, at least not the sort that conjures up images of injuries and lawsuits, there is cause for concern any time a dog shows high dominance and a lack of inhibition when faced by larger, even more dominant dogs.

It is unlikely your puppy is "protecting you," unless he first is evaluating your reaction, noticing concern or fear on your part, and then jumping in to assist and defend you. Actual protectiveness is less common than "possessiveness." Sometimes adult dogs will behave aggressively when "their" person is approached by another dog. This has nothing to do with a need to be protected on the owner's part, or impending danger; it is much the same reaction as a dog defending its favorite bone, and it is typical of canines that are very dominant in their general relationships with their human group members.

You didn't mention your puppy's age, so I will continue on the assumption it is a younger puppy, less than 6 months old. Most likely it is a high-energy, enthusiastic second dog that may not get as much "one-on-one" time as your first dog did. It also is likely, based on the behavior you are describing, that the puppy didn't experience as much early socialization as is desirable. Puppies that come from situations such as pet shops, where they may be separated very early (5 to 6 weeks) from littermates (for a maximum window of time for cuteness and sale-ability) often are kept in separate cages until sold. Their entire social experience is one of frustration and overexcitement; either people are looking at, tapping and poking at them, or they are being "tried out" in a tiny play room with an excited family attempting to determine if the puppy is the "right one" for them.

Even puppies from reputable breeders, if they are taken to their new homes too early, may have problems relating well to other dogs as they mature. The ideal time to get a new puppy is when it is between 7 and 8 weeks old, or after 10 weeks old. (Between 8 weeks and 10 weeks is considered undesirable because puppies are in the "fear-imprinting" stage of development, when frightening or traumatic experiences can result in lifelong fears.) Before the puppies are 49 days old, they still are in a very important developmental stage in which their permanent personality is being influenced by their social interactions. By playing with similar-in-size-and-strength littermates, puppies learn to win some and to lose some tussles. They learn how to give and recognize submission signals-important communication skills for future adult interactions with other, possibly competitive dogs.

Dogs that are well-socialized with littermates tend to behave more appropriately not just with other dogs, but with their new human family members as well. They are more accepting of leadership and are more capable of inhibiting their aggressive behaviors. But when a strong, dominant puppy, especially one that was socialized poorly, becomes roommates with a very soft-tempered dog, it rapidly may be reinforced in its dominance. Adding another level of undesirable reinforcement, the owners may be unaccustomed to communicating leadership because their first dog has been so easy-going. As a result, the puppy rapidly may begin to assert escalating dominance over both humans and other dogs.

The best way to help your puppy's overall social behavior would be to enroll in a class that emphasizes both improved owner leadership and intercanine relationships. Watching large groups of dogs of both genders and all ages play together in my "Saturday morning play group" (my variation on a dog park with more rules and some training, as well as fun, involved), my students are able to witness and begin to understand interdog dynamics.

Dogs are put through training paces first, with class coming before recess. This takes the edge off before the dogs are allowed the freedom of "the playground," our fenced acre back yard. Training first reminds dogs they must mind their manners and their owners, even in exciting places where they anticipate great fun at any moment.

After we've completed some training exercises, the dogs are liberated in three groupings. First, the most dominant dogs are turned loose together, and they immediately begin to engage in violent-looking jumping, wrestling, mounting and inhibited-biting behaviors, as well as wild bursts of running in a "pack." Dogs pair up or break into groups of three, seeming to find "favorites" to playfight with. Meanwhile my own dogs-Blue, a 1-year-old male Australian Cattle Dog, along with 3-year-old Neffer, a female Pharaoh Hound-make the rounds, trimming high-dominance dogs down to size. They work as a "tag team," putting dogs that seem too big for their breeches in their place. Although dominant, aggressive dogs may attempt to pick a serious fight with one of the other dogs, Blue and Neffer instantly break it up, taking on the aggressor and playfully cutting it down to size. If a dog seems to be getting too out of control, directing serious aggression at another dog, I change the subject for both of them by either sending in one of my dogs as a "bouncer," or firmly directing "penny bottles"-plastic pop bottles with 20 or so pennies in them-into their midst. Because all of the dogs that participate in my training recognize the penny bottle sound as a behavioral interruption, it not only interrupts their fighting but reminds them they are not the highest-ranking individuals present.

After the more dominant dogs have gotten a chance to work out ranking issues among themselves, the second temperament level, the "beta" type dogs, are liberated. They rarely attract more than a bit of sniffing from the first group. As they are investigated, individuals from the second group stand passively, allowing themselves to be sniffed, and then engage in enthusiastic wrestling and chasing play with the dominant dogs and each other. The second-level dogs will play and wrestle among themselves in a similar manner to the first group, but when a dominant dog becomes involved, the sub-dominant dogs yield, often playfully rolling into submissive postures for a moment, demonstrating non competitiveness, before leaping up to resume play.

Finally the third group, which comprises the younger puppies, is released. This group includes soft-tempered, "omega" type dogs, shy or fearful dogs, and very small adult dogs. It is important not to allow these dogs loose at the same time as the first group, because they may attract more dominant attention than they can handle. Until the excitement and adrenal levels have been brought down, small dogs can be at risk of predatory, rather than play, aggression from cranked-up, dominant, larger dogs.

Similar results can be observed at "dog parks"-enclosed public play areas designated for dogs-without all of the careful strategy. But the concern that a wild-card aggressive dog might not play well with others, or that owners might not interact appropriately with rough-playing dogs makes me believe my approach offers a controlled starting point for owners trying to gain insight into dog behavior while allowing their pets to engage socially with other dogs.

Although your Lab may not be able to help your Boxer learn his limitations, playing with more mature, dominant-but self-controlled-dogs in a supervised setting could help. Singling him out and doing some one-on-one training also would be beneficial to his overall self-control and obedience, as well as improve his sense of himself as subordinate to you. But between the two dogs, if the Boxer steps up and the Lab steps down in rank, so be it. Do not try to undermine the Boxer. Nature establishes dogs as more or less dominant, and the two dogs will work this out based on their temperaments and abilities, not age, seniority or your feelings on the subject.

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• Aggression

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