If Billy has been crated in the past it might be a good idea to consider using it again, at least for a while. Many people are very reluctant to crate their dogs when they aren't home, feeling giving the dog its "freedom" is more kind. But in cases in which dogs get themselves into trouble of a destructive sort, more harm may be caused by letting the dog roam while home alone. If the dog chews the wrong object, such as an electrical cord, he may be killed or badly hurt. Being confined to a cage or a kitchen or even having the run of the home while the family is away all may be equally frustrating for some dogs; they don't necessarily appreciate the larger, more comfy version of solitary confinement they are left in when owners leave. For many dogs the issue causing the greatest frustration is separation from the rest of their social group, not the size of the space they are left behind to cope.

Stress-outletting behaviors in the form of destruction begin innocently enough. Dogs feeling bored or blue chew: This is one of their built-in coping mechanisms, and they have a fine time doing it, without a twinge of remorse. Hard as it is to reconcile, your dog has no intentions of punishing you or being spiteful. For most dogs the act of chewing any object is gratifying; but personal objects belonging to other, absent members of the group are often more desirable than all the wonderful things owners provide. Possession being nine-tenths of the law for dogs, when the owner isn't around, all objects are up for grabs and fair game. When an owner returns and reclaims the prized possession, a subordinate dog may appear cowed and contrite, and owners with a tendency to anthropomorphize will swear their pets "know they've done wrong." But actually the submissive attitude of the scolded dog demonstrates its willingness to give up the object and to appease the angry owner with yielding, subordinate postures.

The owner's angry behavior upon returning does help many dogs draw a conclusion, but it isn't to chew less! Punishment actually works to further reinforce chewing behaviors as the ones that get positive results, in the form of negative attention. Every time the dog chews a possession belonging to a specific person, that person inevitably returns to scold and reclaim the prize. A possible canine conclusion might be chewing someone's possessions will result in that person returning, albeit angrily. Many valiant, socially attracted dogs bite the bullet and their owners' personal belongings, taking the punishment dished out time after time, as all of it becomes an escalating vicious circle: The owner leaves; the dog feels stressed. The dog chews and feels less stressed while chewing. The owner returns and shames or punishes; the dog feels stressed, yet relieved the owner is back. If the dog understands and can learn from punishment, why does it repeat the behavior again and again? Punishment is associated with the owner's return and not with the act of chewing while alone! The solitary chewer always is having a good time while left unattended with the objects it chews. The owner's appearance announces impending trouble, and any scolding or punishment will be associated with the angry owner, not with the inappropriate behavior. To reduce inappropriate chewing, the first step is to stop responding to it, tough as that may be. No more scolding, shaming or even acknowledging his behaviors when you return and find "evidence" at the "scene of the crime." Instead of personal punishment, mild aversives can be introduced. These are negative occurrences that will seem to be caused directly by the act of inappropriate possession-grabbing.

Associate a specific smell, something nontoxic and not necessarily unpleasant-smelling, with a negative experience so the smell alone will work as a sort of warning. This is accomplished by dropping plastic bottles with pennies in them and the scent rubbed on the bottle's surface right near the dog; if he sniffs it, drop a second "smelly bomb" near the dog. If he is very bold and persistent you may need to have the bomb actually make contact by lightly dropping it upon the dog's hindquarters as he attempts to touch the first bomb. Be sure not to say anything or punish; allow the dog to form his own conclusion: "This thing jumped on me, makes a noise and has a specific smell; I'd like to avoid all of these things in the future."

Now by association, your dog's interest in other peoples' possessions can be narrowed rapidly. Rub the newly negative "bomb scent" on objects left within reach of your dog while you are home and alert to the dog's experimentation. If he braves the scent and touches an object he shouldn't, shake or toss the bomb near him. Take no credit for the correction, even if your dog sees it came from your hand; don't admire your work. Instead, continue to look elsewhere, refusing to give any more negative attention.

Rig "booby traps" using thread or fishing line attached from bombs balanced precariously above to various objects of the dog's inappropriate desire below. If he plays with his own possessions, he'll have a fine time, but if he touches anyone else's, the bombs may fall and rattle. Although they don't typically fall on the dog, the sound alone works well as a secondary reinforcer.

Finally, confine your dog when you are unable to supervise or set him up with the suggestions I've given. Crating actually isn't going to train your dog, but the restraint it provides can help prevent him from backsliding when you aren't home. Do obedience training before you leave and when you first return after an absence to help channel some of your dog's frustrated energy into busywork. Providing really desirable chewing materials also usually helps reduce destructive behavior; try a smoked knuckle bone if your vet says it's OK. We use them, and our dogs don't move from the bones for hours. They don't splinter like other bones can but rather break into small, digestible particles. Bones are what nature intended for dogs to chew, and dogs seem to like them best.

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