Dog Clinic
Dog Clinic.net
A source of certified dog doctors and clinics
Home › FAQ - Ask The Vet › How to care › Grooming & Training

Golden Retriever/Finnish Spitz mix whenever sneak by us out the door, he runs away, usually around the neighborhood

We have a 15-month-old Golden Retriever/Finnish Spitz mix that we got from a shelter when he was a 10-month-old stray. He is a housedog, and we take him for long walks several times a day. We also have a big back yard and stairs that he runs up and down for exercise. However, whenever he can sneak by us out the door, he runs away, usually around the neighborhood, and will not come to us. This is a constant battle, and we need advice on how to stop this.
On a leash he minds. He must have been taught, before we had him, to catch cats, because when he is loose he tries to go after them. We also have a cat that he gets along with and a black Labrador Retriever that does not run away. The Golden mix is a good dog, and we don't want to have to get rid of him or have him be hit by a car. What can we do?

You need to do serious boundary training with your dog to teach him not to bolt out the door. In addition, I’d suggest you consider electronic or structural fencing, as a second line of defense. If you tighten up security and also diligently reinforce training on a daily basis, the cats in your neighborhood will thank you, and your dog will have an improved life expectancy. Keep in mind dogs that know the grass is greener on the other side of the door will not suddenly give up when their owners first decide to change the rules. They will challenge them, seeking the positive reinforcement (freedom) they have come to expect. Even if many attempts fail, if occasionally the dog’s escape attempt is successful, it will be very motivated to try, try and try again on the off chance that maybe this time it will work.

To accomplish retraining, it is important to focus on teaching your dog more positive ways to behave, rather than attempting to teach him running away is "bad" or "wrong." Dogs reduce old behaviors when they learn new ones that get better results, especially when their old ways simultaneously stop earning positive results. Begin by teaching your dog a simple patterned behavior. Start by having him on a leash and collar. At first you may need a second long (10 feet to 15 feet) leash, also attached to the collar, held by a helper who remains behind the dog to assist you in thwarting inappropriate impulses. Keep in mind this is a positive approach and involves no disapproval, scolding, punishment or anger. The helper remains totally emotionally uninvolved, while you reserve your attention exclusively for positive moments when the dog is behaving desirably.

Walk to your door, allowing your dog, with both leashes on and one in your left hand, to accompany you. Do not look at or speak to him, but place your right hand on the doorknob; at the same time, cause the dog to back up several steps by applying leash pressure. Here is where you may need your helper to apply pressure on the second leash. With an extremely obstinate dog you also may try using your left foot as a sliding "bulldozer," gently pushing (not stepping on!) his front paws to help motivate him to back up. Keep your attention off until he is in the "right" place, well back from the door! When the dog has successfully backed away, praise him, open the door, say "let’s go" and allow him to follow you outside. Bring him right back in, close the door, walk away from it with him, and then approach the door again, repeating the whole process.

If you practice this many times per day, your dog will begin to automatically back up when you place your hand on the doorknob and look to you for "permission" (“let’s go") to proceed. After several "Simon says let’s go" exits out the door, it is important to introduce the new rule that offsets the newly taught exceptions. When "Simon"/you say nothing, the dog needs to fail as he attempts to bolt out the door. This is accomplished with restraint upon the leash as he gets to the door’s threshold. But do not jerk, or you may damage your dog’s neck! After a few double leash setups, very obviously remove your leash and toss it aside. Let your dog believe he is free and then approach and touch the doorknob. Did he back up? If not, he isn't ready for any increase in challenge level. Let your helper apply the correction (by “correction” I mean making the dog correct, not punishing!), but you should be the one to praise the correct dog. Release him with an "OK" command (but not from the backup leash) and try it again several times in a row. With many days of practice, it should get to the point where your dog automatically backs up when you touch the doorknob and then waits for permission to proceed. The door should never be opened during this training period until the dog is on the leash, or he may slip out and all of your efforts will have been a waste. Through this entire exercise you will have never scolded your dog, nor commanded him to "Wait" or "Stay." The goal is to teach him good self-control; he will learn to wait for your permission before exiting.

For dogs to accept new rules, they need to examine outcomes and form new conclusions. If, while systematically testing a new boundary, a dog discovers its old tried and true behavior (escaping) consistently fails to work, while at the same time new behaviors are introduced (permission) that earn positive results, the dog will voluntarily change its ways.


People who viewed 'Golden Retriever/Finnish Spitz mix whenever sneak by us out the door, he runs away, usually around the neighborhood' also found interest in following articles . . .
Category: